Did you see the nail-biter results of our first round
of Creating with the Stars? Every single project was incredible and we’re sad to say goodbye to three contestants, but are so excited to see what Round 2 brings! While our contestants are hard at work painting something spectacular, we get to share with you the tutorial for Jaime’s sliding barn door console table! You guys, this console table is no joke.
Jaime, from That’s My Letter
, literally must not have slept for five straight days putting this thing together, but it is absolutely gorgeous. And so so well-made. She set the bar very high, ladies and gentlemen, very high. Enjoy, and if you’re feeling extra motivated, give it a try!
You can build it too and for a fraction of the retail cost.
The retail version above sells for $2500 plus $400 shipping – yikes! I’ll show you how to make your own diy version for $300.
The barn door hardware is fairly simple pieces you can find at any big home improvement store – aluminum bars with 1 1/2″ pulley wheels.
How to build a sliding door console:
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/4″ x 63 1/2″(top & bottom)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/4″ x 29 1/4″ (sides)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/4″ x 25″(dividers)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 17 1/2″ x 20 5/8″(middle shelves)
2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 17 1/2″ x 20 3/4″(side shelves)
3 – 3/4″ plywood @ 2 3/4″ x 18 1/4″ (base supports from scraps)
2 – 1×2 @ 25 3/4″(sides)
1 – 1×2 @ 62″ (bottom)
1 – 1×5 @ 62″ (top)
2 – 1×2 @ 20″(dividers)
2 – 1×2 @ 20 5/8″(middle shelves trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 20 3/4″(side shelves trim)
2 – 1×4 @ 19 1/8″(sides)
1 – 5/4 x 4 @ 66 1/2″(front – hidden)
1 – 5/16? @ 66 1/2″(front)
2 – 1×6 @ 67″
2 – 1×5 @67″
8 – 1×6 @ 21″
2 – 1/4″ plywood @ 21″ x 22″
Backing: 1/4″ plywood @ 26″ x 65″
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ finish nails
Door hardware listed below.
1. Build the carcass:
I used my Kreg rip cut to rip down the plywood.
2. Add the shelves.
Work face down and use scrap 1×2 spacers to get perfect placement of the shelf on the front side no matter if the back is a tiny bit too short.
3. Face frame.
You could build the face frame separately and then attach but I choose to build it directly on the carcass since I wasn’t following any plans I needed to be exact in my measurements.
Start with the side 1x2s, then bottom and top, then dividers, then shelf trim.
4. Base molding.
Sides first then front.
Connect boards using pocket holes on underside:
and then glue and clamp top down and attach with countersink screws from inside the console:
6. To build doors connect 4 boards using pocket holes:
Then secure to 1/4″ backing using 3/4″ screws from back.
7. Sand and tape off face frame for paint.
Prime and paint white high gloss enamel.
8. Stain remaining sections Minwax golden oak.
3 – #12 x 2 1/2″ metal screws
4 – #12 x 1 1/2″ metal screws
8 – #12 x 3/4″ metal screws
1 – L shape aluminum bar @ 60″l (base track)
1 – flat aluminum bar @ 62″l (hanging track bar)
4 – flat aluminum bar @ 8 1/2″l (vertical door bars)
1. Cut the bar pieces as listed above.
This will not be fun.
Be sure to smooth any sharp edges.
I used a combination of a coping saw, dremel drill, metal rasp and steel wood.
2. You need to remove the pulley wheel from inside the pulley mechanism:
Again this will not be fun. I used my dremel to slice off the center ‘button’ on both sides of pulley then clamped it down and hammered away at the center pin using an old drill bit:
Tip: the pin will come out faster if the metal is cold (put the pulley in the freezer).
3. Spray paint all the metal pieces (I choose not to paint the screws & washers) using oil rubbed bronze:
4. Attach the base track first.
Center track and set the door in the track to be sure you have enough sliding space.
Predrill and use 2″ wood screws down into base molding:
5. Attach the hanging track 1.75″ from top.
Mark the face frame and predrill holes all the way through the frame:
Set up the hardware in the order below:
Then secure the track to the face frame:
6. Secure pulley wheel to door hardware.
Set up the hardware as listed below:
(The 1 1/2″ screw could be shorter if desired.)
7. Place door in base track then lift 1/4″ or add a spacer, you need bottom clearance for the door to glide.
Now place wheel (attached to flat bar) in track and see where everything lines up.
Use dimensions below as a guide:
Predrill holes in door front for remaining 2 washers and 3/4″ screws then attach.
8. Repeat process for other side, be sure door is level.
9. Hang doors onto track.
The hex nut will allow you to adjust the tightness of the rolling wheel and enable you get past the middle screw head on the hanging track.
Isn’t that crazy? And the workmanship is spot-on! A few weeks ago, I saw this image on Pinterest, not realizing that it was Jaime’s work:
I spent some time checking out her blog tonight and the girl has skills. Big time. You should definitely head over there and check out her blog
and plan on being inspired to build something. You’ve been warned.
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